The Analysis of Wafe Refraction using SWAN Model

Sujantoko Sujantoko

Abstract


Wave simulation is important problem in nearshore coastal design process. Determination of proper wave parameter will provide reliable and accurate design, therefore modeling usually needed to simulate this process where numerical model is the right choice because of its cost is cheaper and the result is quite accurate. SWAN (Simulating Wave Nearshore) is numerical model that already used widely to simulate wave in coastal area. In this research we analyze wave refraction by SWAN model with any coastal profile (m) i.e. 0,01 , 0,03 and 0,05. This simulation also applied in the real problem at Tegal port in Central Java Province. According to the result of this model we find that in the same direction, height, and period, the height of wave break will increase as the coastal slope increase. These problems arise due to decreasing in value of db/Hb that means the peak wave is become steep. Coastal Profile affect the wave height (duo to refraction) about 2%-34%. The jetty at Tegal Port induce the wave height big alteration at dock pond (228,91%) at wave direction 30o, while at groove, back and head of the jetty, wave reduction reach until 12,96% ; 0,02% and 3,55% at incoming wave direction 45o. In the head of the jetty, the wave almost doesn’t being reduced because diffraction and wave reflection doesn’t have significant effect.

Keywords


Simulation, SWAN, Coastal Profile, Refraction, Reduction

Full Text:

PDF

References


Jin, K.R., and Ji, R.G. 1999, “Calibration and Verification of Spectral Wind-Wave Model for Lake Okeechobeei’, Ocean Engineering, Vol 28, pp. 571-584.

Andrew, C.J.F. 1999, “Bibliographic Review of nearshore Wave Model”, Maritime Operation Division Aeronautical and Maritime Research Laboratory,Melbourne Victoria, Australia.

Kirby, J.T. and Dalrymple, R.A.1983,“A Parabolic Equation For Combined Refrac-tion-Difraction of Stokes by Mild Varying Topography”, Journal Fluid Mechanics, Vol. 136, pp. 543-566.

Booij, N, Holthuijsen L.H., and Hernandes., P.R. 1997, “Numerical Wave Propagation On a Curvilinier Grid”, Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis, Vol 1, pp. 286-294

Holthuijsen, L.H., Herman, A., and Booij, N. 2003, “Phase Decoupled Refraction-Difraction for Spectral Wave Model” , Coastal Engineering, Vol 49, pp. 291-305.

Madsen P.A, and Sørensen, R. 1992, ‘A new Form of the Boussinesq Equation with Improve Linier Dispersion Characteristics Part 2 a Slowly-Varying Bathimetry”, Coastal Engineering, Vol 18, pp. 183-204.

WAMDI Group, 1988, “The WAM Mode a Third Generation Ocean Wave Prediction Model”, Phys.Oceanography, Vol 18, pp.1775-1810.

Battjes, J.A. 2003, ‘Development in Coastal Engineering Research’, Proceeding of 50th Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering, pp. 25-39.

Holthuijsen, L.H., Booij, N., Ris, R.C., Haagsma, I.J.G., Kieftenburg, A.T.T.M., Kriezi, E.E., Zijelma, M., and van der Westhyusen, A.J. 2004, “SWAN User Manual Cycle III version 40.31”. Delft University of Technology, Delft.

Holthuijsen, L.H., Booij, N., Ris, R.C., Haagsma, I.J.G., Kieftenburg, A.T.T.M., Kriezi, E.E., Zijelma, M., and van der Westhyusen, A.J. 2004, “SWAN User Manual Cycle III version 40.41”. Delft University of Technology, Delft.

Booij, N, Ris R.C., and Holthuijsen L.H. 1999, “A Third Generation Wave Model for Coastal Region Part 1 model Description and Validation”, Geophysics Research, Vol 104, pp.7649-7666.

Mai, S., Ohle, N., and Zimmarmenn, C. 1999. “Applicability of Wave Model in Shallow Coastal Waters”, Proceeding of The 5th International COPEDEC, Cape Town, South Africa 1999, Pp. 170-179.

Silva, A.A.P., Makarynsky, O., Monbaliu, J., and Soares, C.V. 2002. “WAM/SWAN Simulation in an Open Coast: Comparison with ACDP Measurement”, Littoral 2002 The Changing Coast Eurocoast/EUCC, Porto, Portugal.

Dykes, J.D., Hsu. Y.L., and Rogers, W.E, 2003. “The Development of an Operational SWAN Model for NGLI” , Naval Research Laboratory, Missisipi, USA.

Sujantoko, Armono, H.D Dan Novianto, A. 2005, “Verifikasi Model Gelombang Swan Dengan Hasil Eksperimen”, Jurnal Teknologi Kelautan Ftk Its, Nopember.

Gorman, R.M., and Nielson, C.G. 1999, “Modelling Shallow Water Wave Generation and Transformation in An Intertidal Estuary”, Coastal Engineering, Vol 36, Pp. 197-217

Chen, Q.J., and Douglas, S.L. 2002, “Characteristic of Ship Wave and Wind Wave in Mobile Bay”, Annual Report Summary 4/1/02, Department of Civil Engineering, University of South Alabama.

Schoones, J.S., and Luger, S.A. 2003, “EIA for The Ekspansion of Containment Terminal Stacking Area at The Port of Cape Town”, CSIV Report ENV-S-C 2003-83, CSIR Enviromentek,Cape Town.

Park, S., and Park, S.H. 2004, “Operational Wave Forecast and Verification at KMA and New Implementation Planar for The 2nd Phase KMA Superkomputer”, Numerical Weather Prediction Division, Korea Meteorological Administration, Seoul.

Edge, B.L. 2004, “Insitu Containment and Treatment: Engineering Cap Integrity and Reactivity”, EPA Project Report, HSRC/S & Sw, Texas A & M University.

CERC 1984, “Shore protection Manual”, US Army coastal Engineering Research centre, Washington




DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.12962/j20882033.v20i2.123

Refbacks

  • There are currently no refbacks.


Creative Commons License

IPTEK Journal of Science and Technology by Lembaga Penelitian dan Pengabdian kepada Masyarakat, ITS is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.
Based on a work at https://iptek.its.ac.id/index.php/jts.